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Kuharica iz New Yorka Rebecca Charles otvara podrum od kamenica u Kennebunku, Maine

Kuharica iz New Yorka Rebecca Charles otvara podrum od kamenica u Kennebunku, Maine


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Charles ispunjava njezin dugogodišnji san o posjedovanju restorana u Maineu

Charles je kuhar/vlasnik Pearl Oyster Bar u New Yorku.

Rebecca Charles, koja je poznata po svojim jastogovima i na našim popisima najhladniji ljudi u hrani i zlonamjerne kuharice VRIJEME previđeno, ispunila je svoj dugogodišnji san o posjedovanju restorana u Maineu.

Charles, kuhar/vlasnik Pearl Oyster Bar u New Yorku, kupio bivšu Abbondante Trattoria & Bar u Kennebunku, Maine, gdje je Spat Oyster Cellar sada otvoren za poslovanje. Nalazi se u donjem dijelu zgrade. U blagovaonici na katu, koja je mnogo veća, Charles planira otvoriti Maine inkarnaciju Pearl Oyster Bar.

Na jelovniku je izbor rashlađenih plodova mora, malih tanjura, kanti na pari, rolata od jastoga, cijele ribe na žaru i još mnogo toga. Restoran je otvoren od utorka do nedjelje, od 17:30. do 22 sata

Pogledajte naše pregled najboljih rolata od jastoga izvan Mainea i Maineovih 20 najboljih rolata od jastoga.


Carstvo kamenica

Rebecca Charles, kuharica/vlasnica iznimno uspješnog Pearl Oyster bara na Manhattanu od 1997. godine, stoji u dukserici i tenisicama usred prostrane, prazne sobe sa stropom u katedrali na Zapadnoj aveniji u Kennebunku. Podovi su široke daske, prekrivene prašnjavim tragovima. Nadzemni, lukavi, otkačeni lusteri visiju. Svi zidovi i strop obojeni su mračnom pločom u crnu boju.

"Nije li strašno?" pitala je. Njezin osmijeh je ogroman. "Vidite da imamo puno posla za obaviti." Za tri dana tim za obnovu sići će pretvoriti pećinsku sobu u užurbani sezonski restoran, a dolje u pubički podrum od kamenica. "Spat je 'dječja' kamenica", objašnjava ona.

Ovaj restoran, koji ima blagovaonice na katu/u prizemlju, nedavno je bio kratkotrajno poduzeće pod nazivom Table namijenjeno „kuharskim tečajevima, pop-up večerama, tečajevima miksologije, [i] degustacijama vina”, prema njegovoj promotivnoj literaturi. Kad se stol presavio, Charles je nasrnuo i kupio zgradu i malu kućicu "pekara" na istom imanju. Prije Stola, 27 Western Avenue bio je restoran Abbondante, a prije toga Grissini (na slici slijedeća stranica), talijanski restoran kojeg smo se svi koji smo ondje ručali nježno sjećali.

"Grissini je bilo odlično mjesto za večeru - bilo je zabavno biti tamo", kaže Charles. Ona želi vratiti taj osjećaj. Ironično, iako su prostorije sada izvađene, ostaju dvije od Grissinijevih najupečatljivijih značajki: Veliki kameni kamin u blagovaonici i nemoguće dugačak, ljupki stol za berbu bora koji je Grissini koristio za obilne košare buketa, kruha i daske za rezanje. Kad ste došli na večeru, treperava vatra i prikaz seljačkog kruha zavodljivo su šaputali Pod toskanskim suncem.

"Jelovnik Spat Oyster Cellar bit će vrlo sličan Pearl Oyster Baru", kaže Rebecca (na slici desno). Planira ga otvoriti ovog mjeseca. Veći restoran na katu, okvirno nazvan Pearl North, ponudit će i morske plodove, a otvara se ove jeseni (dolje desno).

"Imam predložak pivnice" na umu za veliki restoran. “Zapravo ne volim previše raditi s dizajnerima interijera, jer je to zabavan dio. Idem sa klasičnim francuskim bistroom Thonet savijenim stolicama, ali podstavljenim. I moj jelovnik - vidjet ćete francuske elemente, ali to je američka hrana. "

Dolje u niskim stropovima koji će postati Spat Oyster Cellar, posjetitelje privlači duga mramorna šipka od karare i mali kamin čak i prije nego što je restauracija započela. Sjedit će "otprilike 35 u baru i na podu" i bit će otvoren tijekom cijele godine. Osjeća se kao samo intimno mjesto za zaustavljanje kamenica i piva u snježnoj oluji.

KENNEBUNK VEZA

Obitelj Rebecca Charles počela je dolaziti iz Brooklyna na ljeto u Kennebunk prije gotovo 100 godina. To je pokojna Rebecca "Pearle" Stein Goldsmith (lijevo na slici), njezina imenjakinja po majci koja je toliko voljela život i Kennebunk ljeta, koja je izgleda Charlesova muza i inspiracija. U svojim memoarima/kuharici iz 2003. Rolice od jastoga i pita od borovnica, Charles piše: „Maine će uvijek biti kod kuće zbog naših sjećanja ... Moji djedovi i bake [Pearle i Goldie Goldsmith] prvi put su se vozili svojim sjajnim turističkim automobilom Packard kroz Kennebunk vrlo rano u kolovozu 1920. Dok su se njihova kola kretala po aveniji Beach ... vidjeli bi neke istih lijepih starih kamenih kućica, slaničara s šindrom i viktorijanaca koji se nižu uz cestu preko vode kroz koju sada prolazim. "

Tradicija ljetnog odmora obitelji Goldsmith podrazumijevala je smještaj u Forest Hill House and Cottages na Western Avenue. Od 1880 -ih, pa čak i do 1940 -ih, Forest Hill House bio je poznat kao židovska gostinjska kuća i bio je jedini hotel u yankee Kennebunks koji je primao Židove u goste.

Danas je Forest Hill House White Barn Inn. Početkom osamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća, tadašnjeg vlasnika Bijele staje, Jacka Nahilla, Rebeccu Charles je zaposlila kao mladu kuharicu da dođe voditi kuhinju i učini jelo uzbudljivijim. "Prvo sam odnio sve mikrovalne pećnice u podrum", kaže Charles. “Potpuno sam promijenio jelovnik. Imali su pakete sušenih umaka Knorr! Njihova ideja o elegantnom jelu bila su srca iz artičoka iz konzerve s umakom od holandskog oraha Knorr! ” Njezin kuhar trajao je samo jednu sezonu. "Jack me angažirao da potpuno promijenim jelovnik, a ja sam to učinio, pa me otpustio." Smije se, bezbrižno sliježući ramenima. Restorani su ludi posao.

PRO u svom elementu

Charles, mladalački i energičan 62, zaradio je svoje komade u kuhinji restorana u Kennebunku početkom 1980 -ih, uključujući u Whistling Oyster i Café 74, koje je vodila, te u New Yorku krajem 80 -ih i 90 -ih na mnogim mjestima, uključujući Arkadije Anne Rozenzweig, a zatim u Cascabelu. Otvorila je Pearl Oyster Bar u Manhattanovom Greenwich Villageu u ljeto 1997. godine.

"To je doista bilo prvo mjesto u gradu koje je posluživalo rolate i čorbe od jastoga" i drugu klasičnu ljetnu hranu iz Nove Engleske. “Nokauti nisu dugo trajali. Marijin riblji kamp [također u selu] bio je prvi, a sada su posvuda. " Razmišlja o prirodi njujorških prehrambenih trendova. „Rola od jastoga, sendvič od porchette i svinjska lepinja Davida Chang-a-svi sada znaju ovu vrhunsku hranu sendviča. Oni su posvuda [u New Yorku], ali nisu bili nigdje do prvog. ”

Charles koji je napustio Državno sveučilište u New Yorku u Purchaseu ("Nisam baš bio dobar u školi"), Charles nikada nije pohađao kulinarsku školu. "Tada nas nije činilo previše nas." Napominje kako mnogi današnji mladi kuhari misle da biti kuhar znači kulinarsku školu, raditi za velikog kuhara, postati veliki kuhar i dobiti TV emisiju.

"Obučavam svoje kuhare", kaže ona. “Od njih treniram njihovu obuku. Mislim da tehnika i dosljednost nisu stvari koje mnoge od njih zanimaju. " Napominjem da su njezin domaćin i konobari u Pearlu u New Yorku izuzetno gostoljubivi. "Želim da moji konobari imaju iskustva s finom hranom-ali dosadilo im je-pa i dalje znaju svoje stvari."

I dok je u Kennebunku i otvara podrum od kamenica, gdje Charles jede? “Jako mi se sviđa sendvič s ribom pod nazivom‘ A Fish Called Wanda ’kod Allison's. Ako želim školjke, otići ću u Clam Shack na mostu. ”

Komentari zatvoreni

Komentari su zatvoreni. U ovom postu nećete moći objaviti komentar.


Carstvo kamenica

Rebecca Charles, kuharica/vlasnica iznimno uspješnog Pearl Oyster bara na Manhattanu od 1997. godine, stoji u dukserici i tenisicama usred prostrane, prazne sobe sa stropom u katedrali na Zapadnoj aveniji u Kennebunku. Podovi su široke daske, prekrivene prašnjavim tragovima. Nadzemni, raskošni luckasti lusteri visiju. Svi zidovi i strop obojeni su mračnom pločom u crnu boju.

"Nije li strašno?" pitala je. Njezin osmijeh je ogroman. "Vidite da imamo puno posla." Za tri dana tim za obnovu sići će pretvoriti pećinsku sobu u užurbani sezonski restoran, a dolje u pubički podrum od kamenica. "Spat je 'dječja' kamenica", objašnjava ona.

Ovaj restoran, koji ima blagovaonice na katu/u prizemlju, nedavno je bio kratkotrajno poduzeće pod nazivom Table namijenjeno „satovima kuhanja, pop-up večerama, tečajevima miksologije, [i] degustacijama vina”, prema njegovoj promotivnoj literaturi. Kad se stol presavio, Charles je nasrnuo i kupio zgradu i malu kućicu "pekara" na istom imanju. Prije Stola, 27 Western Avenue bio je restoran Abbondante, a prije toga Grissini (na slici slijedeća stranica), talijanski restoran kojeg smo se svi koji smo ondje ručali nježno sjećali.

"Grissini je bilo odlično mjesto za večeru - bilo je zabavno biti tamo", kaže Charles. Ona želi vratiti taj osjećaj. Ironično, iako su prostorije sada izvađene, ostaju dvije od Grissinijevih najupečatljivijih značajki: Veliki kameni kamin u blagovaonici i nemoguće dugačak, ljupki stol za berbu bora koji je Grissini koristio za obilne košare buketa, kruha i daske za rezanje. Kad ste došli na večeru, treperava vatra i prikaz seljačkog kruha zavodljivo su šaputali Pod toskanskim suncem.

"Jelovnik Spat Oyster Cellar bit će vrlo sličan Pearl Oyster Baru", kaže Rebecca (na slici desno). Planira ga otvoriti ovog mjeseca. Veći restoran na katu, okvirno nazvan Pearl North, ponudit će i morske plodove, a otvara se ove jeseni (dolje desno).

"Imam predložak pivnice" na umu za veliki restoran. “Zapravo ne volim previše raditi s dizajnerima interijera, jer je to zabavan dio. Idem sa klasičnim francuskim bistroom Thonet savijenim stolicama, ali podstavljenim. I moj jelovnik - vidjet ćete francuske elemente, ali to je američka hrana. "

Dolje u niskim stropovima koji će postati Spat Oyster Cellar, posjetitelje privlači duga mramorna šipka od karare i mali kamin čak i prije nego što je restauracija započela. Sjedit će "otprilike 35 u baru i na podu" i bit će otvoren tijekom cijele godine. Osjeća se kao samo intimno mjesto za zaustavljanje kamenica i piva u snježnoj oluji.

KENNEBUNK VEZA

Obitelj Rebecca Charles počela je dolaziti iz Brooklyna na ljeto u Kennebunk prije gotovo 100 godina. To je pokojna Rebecca "Pearle" Stein Goldsmith (lijevo na slici), njezina imenjakinja po majci koja je toliko voljela život i Kennebunk ljeta, koja je izgleda Charlesova muza i inspiracija. U svojim memoarima/kuharici iz 2003. Rolice od jastoga i pita od borovnica, Charles piše: „Maine će uvijek biti kod kuće zbog naših sjećanja ... Moji djedovi i bake [Pearle i Goldie Goldsmith] prvi put su se vozili svojim sjajnim turističkim automobilom Packard kroz Kennebunk vrlo rano u kolovozu 1920. Dok su se njihova kola kretala po aveniji Beach ... vidjeli bi neke istih lijepih starih kamenih kućica, slaničara s šindrom i viktorijanaca koji se nižu uz cestu preko vode kroz koju sada prolazim. "

Tradicija ljetnog odmora obitelji Goldsmith podrazumijevala je smještaj u Forest Hill House and Cottages na Western Avenue. Od 1880 -ih, pa čak i do 1940 -ih, Forest Hill House bio je poznat kao židovska gostinjska kuća i bio je jedini hotel u yankee Kennebunks koji je primao Židove u goste.

Danas je Forest Hill House White Barn Inn. Početkom osamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća, tadašnjeg vlasnika Bijele staje, Jacka Nahilla, Rebeccu Charles je zaposlila kao mladu kuharicu kako bi došla voditi kuhinju i učiniti hranu uzbudljivijom. "Prvo sam odnio sve mikrovalne pećnice u podrum", kaže Charles. “Potpuno sam promijenio jelovnik. Imali su pakete Knorr sušenih umaka! Njihova ideja o elegantnom jelu bila su srca iz artičoka iz konzerve s umakom od holandskog oraha Knorr! ” Njezin kuhar trajao je samo jednu sezonu. "Jack me angažirao da potpuno promijenim jelovnik, a ja sam to učinio, pa me otpustio." Smije se, bezbrižno sliježući ramenima. Restorani su ludi posao.

PRO u svom elementu

Charles, mladalački i energičan 62, zaradio je svoje komade u kuhinji restorana u Kennebunku početkom 1980 -ih, uključujući u Whistling Oyster i Café 74, koje je vodila, te u New Yorku krajem 80 -ih i 90 -ih na mnogim mjestima, uključujući Arkadije Anne Rozenzweig, a zatim u Cascabelu. Otvorila je Pearl Oyster Bar u Manhattanovom Greenwich Villageu u ljeto 1997. godine.

"To je doista bilo prvo mjesto u gradu koje je posluživalo rolate i čorbe od jastoga" i drugu klasičnu ljetnu hranu iz Nove Engleske. “Nokauti nisu dugo trajali. Marijin riblji kamp [također u selu] bio je prvi, a sada su posvuda. " Razmišlja o prirodi njujorških prehrambenih trendova. “Rola od jastoga, sendvič od porchette i svinjska lepinja Davida Chang-a-svi sada znaju ovu vrhunsku hranu sendviča. Oni su posvuda [u New Yorku], ali nisu bili nigdje do prvog. ”

Charles koji je napustio Državno sveučilište u New Yorku u Purchaseu ("Nisam baš bio dobar u školi"), Charles nikada nije pohađao kulinarsku školu. "Tada nas nije činilo previše nas." Napominje da mnogi današnji mladi kuhari misle da biti kuhar znači kulinarsku školu, raditi za velikog kuhara, postati veliki kuhar i dobiti TV emisiju.

"Obučavam svoje kuhare", kaže ona. “Od njih treniram njihovu obuku. Mislim da tehnika i dosljednost nisu stvari koje mnoge od njih zanimaju. " Napominjem da su njezin domaćin i konobari u Pearlu u New Yorku izuzetno gostoljubivi. "Želim da moji konobari imaju iskustva s finom hranom-ali dosadilo im je-pa i dalje znaju svoje stvari."

I dok je u Kennebunku i otvara podrum od kamenica, gdje Charles jede? “Jako mi se sviđa sendvič s ribom pod nazivom‘ A Fish Called Wanda ’kod Allison's. Ako želim školjke, otići ću u Clam Shack na mostu. ”

Komentari zatvoreni

Komentari su zatvoreni. U ovom postu nećete moći objaviti komentar.


Carstvo kamenica

Rebecca Charles, kuharica/vlasnica iznimno uspješnog Pearl Oyster bara na Manhattanu od 1997. godine, stoji u dukserici i tenisicama usred prostrane, prazne sobe sa stropom u katedrali na Zapadnoj aveniji u Kennebunku. Podovi su široke daske, prekrivene prašnjavim tragovima. Nadzemni, lukavi, otkačeni lusteri visiju. Svi zidovi i strop obojeni su mračnom pločom u crnu boju.

"Nije li strašno?" pitala je. Njezin osmijeh je ogroman. "Vidite da imamo puno posla za obaviti." Za tri dana tim za obnovu sići će pretvoriti pećinsku sobu u užurbani sezonski restoran, a dolje u pubički podrum od kamenica. "Spat je 'dječja' kamenica", objašnjava ona.

Ovaj restoran, koji ima blagovaonice na katu/u prizemlju, nedavno je bio kratkotrajno poduzeće pod nazivom Table namijenjeno „satovima kuhanja, pop-up večerama, tečajevima miksologije, [i] degustacijama vina”, prema njegovoj promotivnoj literaturi. Kad se stol presavio, Charles je nasrnuo i kupio zgradu i malu kućicu "pekara" na istom imanju. Prije Stola, 27 Western Avenue bio je restoran Abbondante, a prije toga Grissini (na slici slijedeća stranica), talijanski restoran kojeg smo se svi koji smo ondje ručali nježno sjećali.

"Grissini je bilo odlično mjesto za večeru - bilo je zabavno biti tamo", kaže Charles. Ona želi vratiti taj osjećaj. Ironično, iako su prostorije sada izvađene, ostaju dvije od Grissinijevih najupečatljivijih značajki: Veliki kameni kamin u blagovaonici i nemoguće dugačak, ljupki stol za berbu bora koji je Grissini koristio za obilne košare buketa, kruha i daske za rezanje. Kad ste došli na večeru, treperava vatra i prikaz seljačkog kruha zavodljivo su šaputali Pod toskanskim suncem.

"Jelovnik Spat Oyster Cellar bit će vrlo sličan Pearl Oyster Baru", kaže Rebecca (na slici desno). Planira ga otvoriti ovog mjeseca. Veći restoran na katu, okvirno nazvan Pearl North, ponudit će i morske plodove, a otvara se ove jeseni (dolje desno).

"Imam predložak pivnice" na umu za veliki restoran. “Zapravo ne volim previše raditi s dizajnerima interijera, jer je to zabavan dio. Idem sa klasičnim francuskim bistroom Thonet savijenim stolicama, ali podstavljenim. I moj jelovnik - vidjet ćete francuske elemente, ali to je američka hrana. "

Dolje u niskim stropovima koji će postati Spat Oyster Cellar, posjetitelje privlači duga mramorna šipka od karare i mali kamin čak i prije nego što je restauracija započela. Sjedit će "otprilike 35 u baru i na podu" i bit će otvoren tijekom cijele godine. Osjeća se kao samo intimno mjesto za zaustavljanje kamenica i piva u snježnoj oluji.

KENNEBUNK VEZA

Obitelj Rebecca Charles počela je dolaziti iz Brooklyna na ljeto u Kennebunk prije gotovo 100 godina. To je pokojna Rebecca "Pearle" Stein Goldsmith (lijevo na slici), njezina imenjakinja po majci koja je toliko voljela život i Kennebunk ljeta, koja je izgleda Charlesova muza i inspiracija. U svojim memoarima/kuharici iz 2003. Rolice od jastoga i pita od borovnica, Charles piše: „Maine će uvijek biti kod kuće zbog naših sjećanja ... Moji djedovi i bake [Pearle i Goldie Goldsmith] prvi put su se vozili svojim sjajnim turističkim automobilom Packard kroz Kennebunk vrlo rano u kolovozu 1920. Dok su se njihova kola kretala po aveniji Beach ... vidjeli bi neke istih lijepih starih kamenih kućica, slaničara s šindrom i viktorijanaca koji se nižu uz cestu preko vode kroz koju sada prolazim. "

Tradicija ljetnog odmora obitelji Goldsmith podrazumijevala je smještaj u Forest Hill House and Cottages na Western Avenue. Od 1880 -ih, pa čak i do 1940 -ih, Forest Hill House bio je poznat kao židovska gostinjska kuća i bio je jedini hotel u yankee Kennebunks koji je primao Židove u goste.

Danas je Forest Hill House White Barn Inn. Početkom osamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća, tadašnjeg vlasnika Bijele staje, Jacka Nahilla, Rebeccu Charles je zaposlila kao mladu kuharicu kako bi došla voditi kuhinju i učiniti hranu uzbudljivijom. "Prvo sam odnio sve mikrovalne pećnice u podrum", kaže Charles. “Potpuno sam promijenio jelovnik. Imali su pakete sušenih umaka Knorr! Njihova ideja o elegantnom jelu bila su srca iz artičoka iz konzerve s umakom od holandskog oraha Knorr! ” Njezin kuhar trajao je samo jednu sezonu. "Jack me angažirao da potpuno promijenim jelovnik, a ja sam to učinio, pa me otpustio." Smije se, bezbrižno sliježući ramenima. Restorani su ludi posao.

PRO u svom elementu

Charles, mladalački i energičan 62, zaradio je svoje komade u kuhinji restorana u Kennebunku početkom 1980 -ih, uključujući u Whistling Oyster i Café 74, koje je vodila, te u New Yorku krajem 80 -ih i 90 -ih na mnogim mjestima, uključujući Arkadije Anne Rozenzweig, a zatim u Cascabelu. Otvorila je Pearl Oyster Bar u Manhattanovom Greenwich Villageu u ljeto 1997. godine.

"To je doista bilo prvo mjesto u gradu koje je posluživalo rolate i čorbe od jastoga" i drugu klasičnu ljetnu hranu iz Nove Engleske. “Nokauti nisu dugo trajali. Marijin riblji kamp [također u selu] bio je prvi, a sada su posvuda. " Razmišlja o prirodi njujorških prehrambenih trendova. “Rola od jastoga, sendvič od porchette i svinjska lepinja Davida Chang-a-svi sada znaju ovu vrhunsku hranu sendviča. Oni su posvuda [u New Yorku], ali nisu bili nigdje do prvog. ”

Charles koji je napustio Državno sveučilište u New Yorku u Purchaseu ("Nisam baš bio dobar u školi"), Charles nikada nije pohađao kulinarsku školu. "Tada nas nije činilo previše nas." Napominje kako mnogi današnji mladi kuhari misle da biti kuhar znači kulinarsku školu, raditi za velikog kuhara, postati veliki kuhar i dobiti TV emisiju.

"Obučavam svoje kuhare", kaže ona. “Od njih treniram njihovu obuku. Mislim da tehnika i dosljednost nisu stvari koje mnoge od njih zanimaju. " Napominjem da su njezin domaćin i konobari u Pearlu u New Yorku izuzetno gostoljubivi. "Želim da moji konobari imaju iskustva s finom hranom-ali dosadilo im je-pa i dalje znaju svoje stvari."

I dok je u Kennebunku i otvara podrum od kamenica, gdje Charles jede? “Jako mi se sviđa sendvič s ribom pod nazivom‘ A Fish Called Wanda ’kod Allison's. Ako želim školjke, otići ću u Clam Shack na mostu. ”

Komentari zatvoreni

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Carstvo kamenica

Rebecca Charles, kuharica/vlasnica iznimno uspješnog Pearl Oyster bara na Manhattanu od 1997. godine, stoji u dukserici i tenisicama usred prostrane, prazne sobe sa stropom u katedrali na Zapadnoj aveniji u Kennebunku. Podovi su široke daske, prekrivene prašnjavim tragovima. Nadzemni, lukavi, otkačeni lusteri visiju. Svi zidovi i strop obojeni su mračnom pločom u crnu boju.

"Nije li strašno?" pitala je. Njezin osmijeh je ogroman. "Vidite da imamo puno posla." Za tri dana tim za obnovu sići će pretvoriti pećinsku sobu u užurbani sezonski restoran, a dolje u pubički podrum od kamenica. "Spat je 'dječja' kamenica", objašnjava ona.

Ovaj restoran, koji ima blagovaonice na katu/u prizemlju, nedavno je bio kratkotrajno poduzeće pod nazivom Table namijenjeno „kuharskim tečajevima, pop-up večerama, tečajevima miksologije, [i] degustacijama vina”, prema njegovoj promotivnoj literaturi. Kad se stol presavio, Charles je nasrnuo i kupio zgradu i malu kućicu "pekara" na istom imanju. Prije Stola, 27 Western Avenue bio je restoran Abbondante, a prije toga Grissini (na slici slijedeća stranica), talijanski restoran kojeg smo se svi koji smo ondje ručali nježno sjećali.

"Grissini je bilo odlično mjesto za večeru - bilo je zabavno biti tamo", kaže Charles. Ona želi vratiti taj osjećaj. Ironično, iako su prostorije sada izvađene, ostaju dvije od Grissinijevih najupečatljivijih značajki: Veliki kameni kamin u blagovaonici i nemoguće dugačak, ljupki stol za berbu bora koji je Grissini koristio za obilne košare buketa, kruha i daske za rezanje. Kad ste došli na večeru, treperava vatra i prikaz seljačkog kruha zavodljivo su šaputali Pod toskanskim suncem.

"Jelovnik Spat Oyster Cellar bit će vrlo sličan Pearl Oyster Baru", kaže Rebecca (na slici desno). Planira ga otvoriti ovog mjeseca. Veći restoran na katu, okvirno nazvan Pearl North, ponudit će i morske plodove, a otvara se ove jeseni (dolje desno).

"Imam predložak pivnice" na umu za veliki restoran. “Zapravo ne volim previše raditi s dizajnerima interijera, jer je to zabavan dio. Idem sa klasičnim francuskim bistroom Thonet savijenim stolicama, ali podstavljenim. I moj jelovnik - vidjet ćete francuske elemente, ali to je američka hrana. "

Dolje u niskim stropovima koji će postati Spat Oyster Cellar, posjetitelje privlači duga mramorna šipka od karare i mali kamin čak i prije nego što je restauracija započela. Sjedit će "otprilike 35 u baru i na podu" i bit će otvoren tijekom cijele godine. Osjeća se kao samo intimno mjesto za zaustavljanje kamenica i piva u snježnoj oluji.

KENNEBUNK VEZA

Obitelj Rebecca Charles počela je dolaziti iz Brooklyna na ljeto u Kennebunk prije gotovo 100 godina. To je pokojna Rebecca "Pearle" Stein Goldsmith (lijevo na slici), njezina imenjakinja baka po majci koja je toliko voljela život i Kennebunk ljeta, koja je izgleda Charlesova muza i inspiracija. U svojim memoarima/kuharici iz 2003. Rolice od jastoga i pita od borovnica, Charles piše: „Maine će uvijek biti kod kuće zbog naših sjećanja ... Moji djedovi i bake [Pearle i Goldie Goldsmith] prvi put su se vozili svojim sjajnim turističkim automobilom Packard kroz Kennebunk vrlo rano u kolovozu 1920. Dok su se njihova kola kretala po aveniji Beach ... vidjeli bi neke istih lijepih starih kamenih kućica, slaničara s šindrom i viktorijanaca koji se nižu uz cestu preko vode kroz koju sada prolazim. "

Tradicija ljetnog odmora obitelji Goldsmith podrazumijevala je smještaj u Forest Hill House and Cottages na Western Avenue. Od 1880 -ih, pa čak i 1940 -ih, Forest Hill House bila je poznata kao židovska gostinjska kuća i bila je jedini hotel u yankee Kennebunks koji je primao Židove u goste.

Danas je Forest Hill House White Barn Inn. Početkom osamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća, tadašnjeg vlasnika Bijele staje, Jacka Nahilla, Rebeccu Charles je zaposlila kao mladu kuharicu kako bi došla voditi kuhinju i učiniti hranu uzbudljivijom. "Prvo sam odnio sve mikrovalne pećnice u podrum", kaže Charles. “Potpuno sam promijenio jelovnik. Imali su pakete sušenih umaka Knorr! Njihova ideja o elegantnom jelu bila su srca iz artičoka iz konzerve s umakom od holandskog oraha Knorr! ” Njezin kuhar trajao je samo jednu sezonu. "Jack me angažirao da potpuno promijenim jelovnik, a ja sam to učinio, pa me otpustio." Smije se, bezbrižno sliježući ramenima. Restorani su ludi posao.

PRO u svom elementu

Charles, mladalački i energičan 62, zaradio je svoje obroke u kuhinji restorana u Kennebunku početkom 1980 -ih, uključujući u Whistling Oyster i Café 74, koje je vodila, te u New Yorku kasnih 80 -ih i 90 -ih na mnogim mjestima, uključujući Arkadije Anne Rozenzweig, a zatim u Cascabelu. Otvorila je Pearl Oyster Bar u Greenwich Villageu na Manhattanu u ljeto 1997. godine.

"To je doista bilo prvo mjesto u gradu koje je posluživalo rolate i čorbe od jastoga" i drugu klasičnu ljetnu hranu iz Nove Engleske. “Nokauti nisu dugo trajali. Marijin riblji kamp [također u selu] bio je prvi, a sada su posvuda. ” Razmišlja o prirodi njujorških prehrambenih trendova. „Rola od jastoga, sendvič od porchette i svinjska lepinja Davida Chang-a-svi sada znaju ovu vrhunsku hranu sendviča. Oni su posvuda [u New Yorku], ali nisu bili nigdje do prvog. ”

Charles koji je napustio Državno sveučilište u New Yorku u Purchaseu ("Nisam baš bio dobar u školi"), Charles nikada nije pohađao kulinarsku školu. "Tada nas nije činilo previše nas." Napominje kako mnogi današnji mladi kuhari misle da biti kuhar znači kulinarsku školu, raditi za velikog kuhara, postati veliki kuhar i dobiti TV emisiju.

"Obučavam svoje kuhare", kaže ona. “Od njih treniram njihovu obuku. Mislim da tehnika i dosljednost nisu stvari koje mnoge od njih zanimaju. " Napominjem da su njezin domaćin i konobari u Pearlu u New Yorku izuzetno gostoljubivi. "Želim da moji konobari imaju iskustva s finom hranom-ali dosadilo im je-pa i dalje znaju svoje stvari."

I dok je u Kennebunku i otvara podrum od kamenica, gdje Charles jede? “Jako mi se sviđa sendvič s ribom pod nazivom‘ A Fish Called Wanda ’kod Allison's. Ako želim školjke, otići ću u Clam Shack na mostu. ”

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Carstvo kamenica

Rebecca Charles, kuharica/vlasnica iznimno uspješnog Pearl Oyster bara na Manhattanu od 1997. godine, stoji u dukserici i tenisicama usred prostrane, prazne sobe sa stropom u katedrali na Zapadnoj aveniji u Kennebunku. Podovi su široke daske, prekrivene prašnjavim tragovima. Nadzemni, raskošni luckasti lusteri visiju. Svi zidovi i strop obojeni su mračnom pločom u crnu boju.

"Nije li strašno?" pitala je. Njezin osmijeh je ogroman. "Vidite da imamo puno posla za obaviti." Za tri dana tim za obnovu sići će pretvoriti pećinsku sobu u užurbani sezonski restoran, a dolje u pubički podrum od kamenica. "Spat je 'dječja' kamenica", objašnjava ona.

Ovaj restoran, koji ima blagovaonice na katu/u prizemlju, nedavno je bio kratkotrajno poduzeće pod nazivom Table namijenjeno „satovima kuhanja, pop-up večerama, tečajevima miksologije, [i] degustacijama vina”, prema njegovoj promotivnoj literaturi. Kad se stol presavio, Charles je nasrnuo i kupio zgradu i malu kućicu "pekara" na istom imanju. Prije Stola, 27 Western Avenue bio je restoran Abbondante, a prije toga Grissini (na slici slijedeća stranica), talijanski restoran kojeg smo se svi koji smo ondje ručali nježno sjećali.

"Grissini je bilo odlično mjesto za večeru - bilo je zabavno biti tamo", kaže Charles. Ona želi vratiti taj osjećaj. Ironično, iako su prostorije sada izvađene, ostaju dvije od Grissinijevih najupečatljivijih značajki: Veliki kameni kamin u blagovaonici i nemoguće dugačak, ljupki stol za berbu bora koji je Grissini koristio za obilne košare buketa, kruha i daske za rezanje. Kad ste došli na večeru, treperava vatra i prikaz seljačkog kruha zavodljivo su šaputali Pod toskanskim suncem.

"Jelovnik Spat Oyster Cellar bit će vrlo sličan Pearl Oyster Baru", kaže Rebecca (na slici desno). Planira ga otvoriti ovog mjeseca. Veći restoran na katu, okvirno nazvan Pearl North, ponudit će i morske plodove, a otvara se ove jeseni (dolje desno).

"Imam predložak pivnice" na umu za veliki restoran. “Zapravo ne volim previše raditi s dizajnerima interijera, jer je to zabavan dio. Idem sa klasičnim francuskim bistroom Thonet savijenim stolicama, ali podstavljenim. I moj jelovnik - vidjet ćete francuske elemente, ali to je američka hrana. "

Dolje u niskim stropovima koji će postati Spat Oyster Cellar, posjetitelje privlači duga mramorna šipka od karare i mali kamin čak i prije početka obnove. Sjedit će "otprilike 35 u baru i na podu" i bit će otvoren tijekom cijele godine. Osjeća se kao samo intimno mjesto za zaustavljanje kamenica i piva u snježnoj oluji.

KENNEBUNK VEZA

Obitelj Rebecca Charles počela je dolaziti iz Brooklyna na ljeto u Kennebunk prije gotovo 100 godina. To je pokojna Rebecca "Pearle" Stein Goldsmith (lijevo na slici), njezina imenjakinja po majci koja je toliko voljela život i Kennebunk ljeta, koja je izgleda Charlesova muza i inspiracija. U svojim memoarima/kuharici iz 2003. Rolice od jastoga i pita od borovnica, Charles piše: „Maine će uvijek biti kod kuće zbog naših sjećanja ... Moji djedovi i bake [Pearle i Goldie Goldsmith] prvi su put proveli svoj sjajni turistički automobil Packard kroz Kennebunk vrlo rano u kolovozu 1920. Dok su se njihova kola kretala po Beach Avenue ... vidjeli bi neke istih prekrasnih starih kamenih kućica, slaničara s šindrom i viktorijanaca koji se nižu uz cestu preko vode kroz koju sada prolazim. "

Tradicija ljetnog odmora obitelji Goldsmith podrazumijevala je smještaj u Forest Hill House and Cottages na Western Avenue. Since the 1880s, and well into the 1940s, Forest Hill House was known as the Jewish guest house and was the only hotel in the yankee Kennebunks that accepted Jews as guests.

Today, Forest Hill House is the White Barn Inn. In the early 1980s, Rebecca Charles was hired as a young cook by the White Barn’s then-owner, Jack Nahill, to come run the kitchen and make the food more exciting. “First I took all the microwaves down to the basement,” says Charles. “I completely changed the menu. They had packets of Knorr dried sauces! Their idea of an elegant dish was canned artichoke hearts with Knorr hollandaise sauce!” Her stint as chef lasted just the one season. “Jack hired me to completely change the menu, and I did, so he fired me.” She laughs, with a carefree shrug. Restaurants are a crazy business.

A PRO IN HER ELEMENT

Charles, a youthful and energetic 62, earned her chops in restaurant kitchens in Kennebunk in the early 1980s, including at the Whistling Oyster and Café 74, which she ran, and in New York in the late ’80s and ’90s at many spots including Anne Rozenzweig’s Arcadia, and then at Cascabel. She opened Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village in the summer of 1997.

“It really was the first place in the city to serve lobster rolls and chowder” and other New England classic summer food. “The knock-offs didn’t take long. Mary’s Fish Camp [also in the Village] was first, and now they’re everywhere.” She ponders the nature of New York food trends. “The lobster roll, the porchetta sandwich, and David Chang’s pork bun–everyone knows these upscale sandwich-type foods now. They’re everywhere [in New York City], but they weren’t anywhere until the first one.”

A film-major dropout from the State University of New York at Purchase (“I wasn’t really good at school”), Charles never attended culinary school. “Not too many of us did back then, really.” She remarks that many of today’s young cooks think being a chef means culinary school, working for a big shot chef, becoming a big shot chef, and getting a TV show.

“I train my cooks,” she says. “I train their training out of them. I don’t think technique and consistency are things many of them are interested in.” I remark that her host and waiters at Pearl in New York are remarkably hospitable. “I want my waiters to have fine-dining experience—but they’re sick of it—so they still know their stuff.”

And while she’s in Kennebunk getting Spat Oyster Cellar open, where does Charles eat? “I really like the fish sandwich called ‘A Fish Called Wanda’ at Allison’s. If I want clams, I’ll go to the Clam Shack on the bridge.”

Comments Closed

Comments are closed. You will not be able to post a comment in this post.


Oyster Empire

Rebecca Charles, chef/owner of the wildly successful Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan since 1997, stands in sweatshirt and sneakers in the middle of a vast, empty, cathedral-ceilinged room on Western Avenue in Kennebunk. The floors are wide planks, covered in dusty footprints. Overhead, garish, wacky chandeliers hang forlornly. The walls, all of them, and the ceiling, are painted a grim chalkboard black.

“Isn’t it awful?” pitala je. Her smile is huge. “You can see we’ve got a lot of work to do.” In three days, the renovation team will descend to transform the cavernous room into a bustling seasonal restaurant and, downstairs, into the pubby Spat Oyster Cellar. “Spat is a ‘baby’ oyster,” she explains.

This restaurant, which has upstairs/downstairs dining areas, was most recently a short-lived enterprise called Table intended for “cooking classes, pop-up dinners, mixology classes, [and] wine tastings,” according to its promotional literature. When Table folded, Charles pounced and bought the building and the little “bakehouse” cottage on the same property. Before Table, 27 Western Avenue housed the restaurant Abbondante, and before that Grissini (pictured next page), an Italian restaurant remembered affectionately by all of us who ever dined there.

“Grissini was a great place to have dinner–it was fun to be there,” says Charles. She wants to bring back that feeling. Ironically, although the premises are now gutted, two of Grissini’s most memorable features remain: The big stone fireplace in the dining room and an impossibly long, lovely pine harvest table that Grissini used for bounteous baskets of bouquets, bread, and cutting boards. When you came for dinner, the flickering fire and display of peasant breads seductively whispered Under the Tuscan Sun.

“Spat Oyster Cellar’s menu will be very similar to Pearl Oyster Bar,” says Rebecca (pictured right). She plans to open it this month. The larger restaurant upstairs, tentatively named Pearl North, will offer non-seafood items as well and opens this fall (bottom right).

“I have a brasserie template” in mind for the big restaurant. “I actually don’t like to work with interior designers too much, because that’s the fun part. I’m going with classic French bistro Thonet bentwood chairs, but padded. And my menu–you’ll see French elements, but it’s American food.”

Downstairs in the low-ceilinged snug that will become Spat Oyster Cellar, visitors are drawn to the long carrara marble bar and the small fireplace even before the restoration has begun. It will seat “approximately 35 at the bar and on the floor” and will be open year-round. It feels like just the intimate spot to stop for oysters and ale in a snowstorm.

KENNEBUNK CONNECTION

Rebecca Charles’s family began coming from Brooklyn to summer in Kennebunk nearly 100 years ago. It’s the late Rebecca “Pearle” Stein Goldsmith (left inset), her namesake maternal grandmother who so loved life and Kennebunk summers, who seems to be Charles’s muse and inspiration. In her 2003 memoir/cookbook, Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie, Charles writes, “Maine will always be home because of our memories…My grandparents [Pearle and Goldie Goldsmith] first drove their shiny Packard touring car through Kennebunk in very early August 1920. As their car motored around Beach Avenue…they would have seen some of the same beautiful old stone cottages, shingled saltboxes, and Victorians lining the road across from the water that I now pass.”

Goldsmith family summer-vacation tradition meant lodging at the Forest Hill House and Cottages on Western Avenue. Since the 1880s, and well into the 1940s, Forest Hill House was known as the Jewish guest house and was the only hotel in the yankee Kennebunks that accepted Jews as guests.

Today, Forest Hill House is the White Barn Inn. In the early 1980s, Rebecca Charles was hired as a young cook by the White Barn’s then-owner, Jack Nahill, to come run the kitchen and make the food more exciting. “First I took all the microwaves down to the basement,” says Charles. “I completely changed the menu. They had packets of Knorr dried sauces! Their idea of an elegant dish was canned artichoke hearts with Knorr hollandaise sauce!” Her stint as chef lasted just the one season. “Jack hired me to completely change the menu, and I did, so he fired me.” She laughs, with a carefree shrug. Restaurants are a crazy business.

A PRO IN HER ELEMENT

Charles, a youthful and energetic 62, earned her chops in restaurant kitchens in Kennebunk in the early 1980s, including at the Whistling Oyster and Café 74, which she ran, and in New York in the late ’80s and ’90s at many spots including Anne Rozenzweig’s Arcadia, and then at Cascabel. She opened Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village in the summer of 1997.

“It really was the first place in the city to serve lobster rolls and chowder” and other New England classic summer food. “The knock-offs didn’t take long. Mary’s Fish Camp [also in the Village] was first, and now they’re everywhere.” She ponders the nature of New York food trends. “The lobster roll, the porchetta sandwich, and David Chang’s pork bun–everyone knows these upscale sandwich-type foods now. They’re everywhere [in New York City], but they weren’t anywhere until the first one.”

A film-major dropout from the State University of New York at Purchase (“I wasn’t really good at school”), Charles never attended culinary school. “Not too many of us did back then, really.” She remarks that many of today’s young cooks think being a chef means culinary school, working for a big shot chef, becoming a big shot chef, and getting a TV show.

“I train my cooks,” she says. “I train their training out of them. I don’t think technique and consistency are things many of them are interested in.” I remark that her host and waiters at Pearl in New York are remarkably hospitable. “I want my waiters to have fine-dining experience—but they’re sick of it—so they still know their stuff.”

And while she’s in Kennebunk getting Spat Oyster Cellar open, where does Charles eat? “I really like the fish sandwich called ‘A Fish Called Wanda’ at Allison’s. If I want clams, I’ll go to the Clam Shack on the bridge.”

Comments Closed

Comments are closed. You will not be able to post a comment in this post.


Oyster Empire

Rebecca Charles, chef/owner of the wildly successful Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan since 1997, stands in sweatshirt and sneakers in the middle of a vast, empty, cathedral-ceilinged room on Western Avenue in Kennebunk. The floors are wide planks, covered in dusty footprints. Overhead, garish, wacky chandeliers hang forlornly. The walls, all of them, and the ceiling, are painted a grim chalkboard black.

“Isn’t it awful?” pitala je. Her smile is huge. “You can see we’ve got a lot of work to do.” In three days, the renovation team will descend to transform the cavernous room into a bustling seasonal restaurant and, downstairs, into the pubby Spat Oyster Cellar. “Spat is a ‘baby’ oyster,” she explains.

This restaurant, which has upstairs/downstairs dining areas, was most recently a short-lived enterprise called Table intended for “cooking classes, pop-up dinners, mixology classes, [and] wine tastings,” according to its promotional literature. When Table folded, Charles pounced and bought the building and the little “bakehouse” cottage on the same property. Before Table, 27 Western Avenue housed the restaurant Abbondante, and before that Grissini (pictured next page), an Italian restaurant remembered affectionately by all of us who ever dined there.

“Grissini was a great place to have dinner–it was fun to be there,” says Charles. She wants to bring back that feeling. Ironically, although the premises are now gutted, two of Grissini’s most memorable features remain: The big stone fireplace in the dining room and an impossibly long, lovely pine harvest table that Grissini used for bounteous baskets of bouquets, bread, and cutting boards. When you came for dinner, the flickering fire and display of peasant breads seductively whispered Under the Tuscan Sun.

“Spat Oyster Cellar’s menu will be very similar to Pearl Oyster Bar,” says Rebecca (pictured right). She plans to open it this month. The larger restaurant upstairs, tentatively named Pearl North, will offer non-seafood items as well and opens this fall (bottom right).

“I have a brasserie template” in mind for the big restaurant. “I actually don’t like to work with interior designers too much, because that’s the fun part. I’m going with classic French bistro Thonet bentwood chairs, but padded. And my menu–you’ll see French elements, but it’s American food.”

Downstairs in the low-ceilinged snug that will become Spat Oyster Cellar, visitors are drawn to the long carrara marble bar and the small fireplace even before the restoration has begun. It will seat “approximately 35 at the bar and on the floor” and will be open year-round. It feels like just the intimate spot to stop for oysters and ale in a snowstorm.

KENNEBUNK CONNECTION

Rebecca Charles’s family began coming from Brooklyn to summer in Kennebunk nearly 100 years ago. It’s the late Rebecca “Pearle” Stein Goldsmith (left inset), her namesake maternal grandmother who so loved life and Kennebunk summers, who seems to be Charles’s muse and inspiration. In her 2003 memoir/cookbook, Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie, Charles writes, “Maine will always be home because of our memories…My grandparents [Pearle and Goldie Goldsmith] first drove their shiny Packard touring car through Kennebunk in very early August 1920. As their car motored around Beach Avenue…they would have seen some of the same beautiful old stone cottages, shingled saltboxes, and Victorians lining the road across from the water that I now pass.”

Goldsmith family summer-vacation tradition meant lodging at the Forest Hill House and Cottages on Western Avenue. Since the 1880s, and well into the 1940s, Forest Hill House was known as the Jewish guest house and was the only hotel in the yankee Kennebunks that accepted Jews as guests.

Today, Forest Hill House is the White Barn Inn. In the early 1980s, Rebecca Charles was hired as a young cook by the White Barn’s then-owner, Jack Nahill, to come run the kitchen and make the food more exciting. “First I took all the microwaves down to the basement,” says Charles. “I completely changed the menu. They had packets of Knorr dried sauces! Their idea of an elegant dish was canned artichoke hearts with Knorr hollandaise sauce!” Her stint as chef lasted just the one season. “Jack hired me to completely change the menu, and I did, so he fired me.” She laughs, with a carefree shrug. Restaurants are a crazy business.

A PRO IN HER ELEMENT

Charles, a youthful and energetic 62, earned her chops in restaurant kitchens in Kennebunk in the early 1980s, including at the Whistling Oyster and Café 74, which she ran, and in New York in the late ’80s and ’90s at many spots including Anne Rozenzweig’s Arcadia, and then at Cascabel. She opened Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village in the summer of 1997.

“It really was the first place in the city to serve lobster rolls and chowder” and other New England classic summer food. “The knock-offs didn’t take long. Mary’s Fish Camp [also in the Village] was first, and now they’re everywhere.” She ponders the nature of New York food trends. “The lobster roll, the porchetta sandwich, and David Chang’s pork bun–everyone knows these upscale sandwich-type foods now. They’re everywhere [in New York City], but they weren’t anywhere until the first one.”

A film-major dropout from the State University of New York at Purchase (“I wasn’t really good at school”), Charles never attended culinary school. “Not too many of us did back then, really.” She remarks that many of today’s young cooks think being a chef means culinary school, working for a big shot chef, becoming a big shot chef, and getting a TV show.

“I train my cooks,” she says. “I train their training out of them. I don’t think technique and consistency are things many of them are interested in.” I remark that her host and waiters at Pearl in New York are remarkably hospitable. “I want my waiters to have fine-dining experience—but they’re sick of it—so they still know their stuff.”

And while she’s in Kennebunk getting Spat Oyster Cellar open, where does Charles eat? “I really like the fish sandwich called ‘A Fish Called Wanda’ at Allison’s. If I want clams, I’ll go to the Clam Shack on the bridge.”

Comments Closed

Comments are closed. You will not be able to post a comment in this post.


Oyster Empire

Rebecca Charles, chef/owner of the wildly successful Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan since 1997, stands in sweatshirt and sneakers in the middle of a vast, empty, cathedral-ceilinged room on Western Avenue in Kennebunk. The floors are wide planks, covered in dusty footprints. Overhead, garish, wacky chandeliers hang forlornly. The walls, all of them, and the ceiling, are painted a grim chalkboard black.

“Isn’t it awful?” pitala je. Her smile is huge. “You can see we’ve got a lot of work to do.” In three days, the renovation team will descend to transform the cavernous room into a bustling seasonal restaurant and, downstairs, into the pubby Spat Oyster Cellar. “Spat is a ‘baby’ oyster,” she explains.

This restaurant, which has upstairs/downstairs dining areas, was most recently a short-lived enterprise called Table intended for “cooking classes, pop-up dinners, mixology classes, [and] wine tastings,” according to its promotional literature. When Table folded, Charles pounced and bought the building and the little “bakehouse” cottage on the same property. Before Table, 27 Western Avenue housed the restaurant Abbondante, and before that Grissini (pictured next page), an Italian restaurant remembered affectionately by all of us who ever dined there.

“Grissini was a great place to have dinner–it was fun to be there,” says Charles. She wants to bring back that feeling. Ironically, although the premises are now gutted, two of Grissini’s most memorable features remain: The big stone fireplace in the dining room and an impossibly long, lovely pine harvest table that Grissini used for bounteous baskets of bouquets, bread, and cutting boards. When you came for dinner, the flickering fire and display of peasant breads seductively whispered Under the Tuscan Sun.

“Spat Oyster Cellar’s menu will be very similar to Pearl Oyster Bar,” says Rebecca (pictured right). She plans to open it this month. The larger restaurant upstairs, tentatively named Pearl North, will offer non-seafood items as well and opens this fall (bottom right).

“I have a brasserie template” in mind for the big restaurant. “I actually don’t like to work with interior designers too much, because that’s the fun part. I’m going with classic French bistro Thonet bentwood chairs, but padded. And my menu–you’ll see French elements, but it’s American food.”

Downstairs in the low-ceilinged snug that will become Spat Oyster Cellar, visitors are drawn to the long carrara marble bar and the small fireplace even before the restoration has begun. It will seat “approximately 35 at the bar and on the floor” and will be open year-round. It feels like just the intimate spot to stop for oysters and ale in a snowstorm.

KENNEBUNK CONNECTION

Rebecca Charles’s family began coming from Brooklyn to summer in Kennebunk nearly 100 years ago. It’s the late Rebecca “Pearle” Stein Goldsmith (left inset), her namesake maternal grandmother who so loved life and Kennebunk summers, who seems to be Charles’s muse and inspiration. In her 2003 memoir/cookbook, Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie, Charles writes, “Maine will always be home because of our memories…My grandparents [Pearle and Goldie Goldsmith] first drove their shiny Packard touring car through Kennebunk in very early August 1920. As their car motored around Beach Avenue…they would have seen some of the same beautiful old stone cottages, shingled saltboxes, and Victorians lining the road across from the water that I now pass.”

Goldsmith family summer-vacation tradition meant lodging at the Forest Hill House and Cottages on Western Avenue. Since the 1880s, and well into the 1940s, Forest Hill House was known as the Jewish guest house and was the only hotel in the yankee Kennebunks that accepted Jews as guests.

Today, Forest Hill House is the White Barn Inn. In the early 1980s, Rebecca Charles was hired as a young cook by the White Barn’s then-owner, Jack Nahill, to come run the kitchen and make the food more exciting. “First I took all the microwaves down to the basement,” says Charles. “I completely changed the menu. They had packets of Knorr dried sauces! Their idea of an elegant dish was canned artichoke hearts with Knorr hollandaise sauce!” Her stint as chef lasted just the one season. “Jack hired me to completely change the menu, and I did, so he fired me.” She laughs, with a carefree shrug. Restaurants are a crazy business.

A PRO IN HER ELEMENT

Charles, a youthful and energetic 62, earned her chops in restaurant kitchens in Kennebunk in the early 1980s, including at the Whistling Oyster and Café 74, which she ran, and in New York in the late ’80s and ’90s at many spots including Anne Rozenzweig’s Arcadia, and then at Cascabel. She opened Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village in the summer of 1997.

“It really was the first place in the city to serve lobster rolls and chowder” and other New England classic summer food. “The knock-offs didn’t take long. Mary’s Fish Camp [also in the Village] was first, and now they’re everywhere.” She ponders the nature of New York food trends. “The lobster roll, the porchetta sandwich, and David Chang’s pork bun–everyone knows these upscale sandwich-type foods now. They’re everywhere [in New York City], but they weren’t anywhere until the first one.”

A film-major dropout from the State University of New York at Purchase (“I wasn’t really good at school”), Charles never attended culinary school. “Not too many of us did back then, really.” She remarks that many of today’s young cooks think being a chef means culinary school, working for a big shot chef, becoming a big shot chef, and getting a TV show.

“I train my cooks,” she says. “I train their training out of them. I don’t think technique and consistency are things many of them are interested in.” I remark that her host and waiters at Pearl in New York are remarkably hospitable. “I want my waiters to have fine-dining experience—but they’re sick of it—so they still know their stuff.”

And while she’s in Kennebunk getting Spat Oyster Cellar open, where does Charles eat? “I really like the fish sandwich called ‘A Fish Called Wanda’ at Allison’s. If I want clams, I’ll go to the Clam Shack on the bridge.”

Comments Closed

Comments are closed. You will not be able to post a comment in this post.


Oyster Empire

Rebecca Charles, chef/owner of the wildly successful Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan since 1997, stands in sweatshirt and sneakers in the middle of a vast, empty, cathedral-ceilinged room on Western Avenue in Kennebunk. The floors are wide planks, covered in dusty footprints. Overhead, garish, wacky chandeliers hang forlornly. The walls, all of them, and the ceiling, are painted a grim chalkboard black.

“Isn’t it awful?” pitala je. Her smile is huge. “You can see we’ve got a lot of work to do.” In three days, the renovation team will descend to transform the cavernous room into a bustling seasonal restaurant and, downstairs, into the pubby Spat Oyster Cellar. “Spat is a ‘baby’ oyster,” she explains.

This restaurant, which has upstairs/downstairs dining areas, was most recently a short-lived enterprise called Table intended for “cooking classes, pop-up dinners, mixology classes, [and] wine tastings,” according to its promotional literature. When Table folded, Charles pounced and bought the building and the little “bakehouse” cottage on the same property. Before Table, 27 Western Avenue housed the restaurant Abbondante, and before that Grissini (pictured next page), an Italian restaurant remembered affectionately by all of us who ever dined there.

“Grissini was a great place to have dinner–it was fun to be there,” says Charles. She wants to bring back that feeling. Ironically, although the premises are now gutted, two of Grissini’s most memorable features remain: The big stone fireplace in the dining room and an impossibly long, lovely pine harvest table that Grissini used for bounteous baskets of bouquets, bread, and cutting boards. When you came for dinner, the flickering fire and display of peasant breads seductively whispered Under the Tuscan Sun.

“Spat Oyster Cellar’s menu will be very similar to Pearl Oyster Bar,” says Rebecca (pictured right). She plans to open it this month. The larger restaurant upstairs, tentatively named Pearl North, will offer non-seafood items as well and opens this fall (bottom right).

“I have a brasserie template” in mind for the big restaurant. “I actually don’t like to work with interior designers too much, because that’s the fun part. I’m going with classic French bistro Thonet bentwood chairs, but padded. And my menu–you’ll see French elements, but it’s American food.”

Downstairs in the low-ceilinged snug that will become Spat Oyster Cellar, visitors are drawn to the long carrara marble bar and the small fireplace even before the restoration has begun. It will seat “approximately 35 at the bar and on the floor” and will be open year-round. It feels like just the intimate spot to stop for oysters and ale in a snowstorm.

KENNEBUNK CONNECTION

Rebecca Charles’s family began coming from Brooklyn to summer in Kennebunk nearly 100 years ago. It’s the late Rebecca “Pearle” Stein Goldsmith (left inset), her namesake maternal grandmother who so loved life and Kennebunk summers, who seems to be Charles’s muse and inspiration. In her 2003 memoir/cookbook, Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie, Charles writes, “Maine will always be home because of our memories…My grandparents [Pearle and Goldie Goldsmith] first drove their shiny Packard touring car through Kennebunk in very early August 1920. As their car motored around Beach Avenue…they would have seen some of the same beautiful old stone cottages, shingled saltboxes, and Victorians lining the road across from the water that I now pass.”

Goldsmith family summer-vacation tradition meant lodging at the Forest Hill House and Cottages on Western Avenue. Since the 1880s, and well into the 1940s, Forest Hill House was known as the Jewish guest house and was the only hotel in the yankee Kennebunks that accepted Jews as guests.

Today, Forest Hill House is the White Barn Inn. In the early 1980s, Rebecca Charles was hired as a young cook by the White Barn’s then-owner, Jack Nahill, to come run the kitchen and make the food more exciting. “First I took all the microwaves down to the basement,” says Charles. “I completely changed the menu. They had packets of Knorr dried sauces! Their idea of an elegant dish was canned artichoke hearts with Knorr hollandaise sauce!” Her stint as chef lasted just the one season. “Jack hired me to completely change the menu, and I did, so he fired me.” She laughs, with a carefree shrug. Restaurants are a crazy business.

A PRO IN HER ELEMENT

Charles, a youthful and energetic 62, earned her chops in restaurant kitchens in Kennebunk in the early 1980s, including at the Whistling Oyster and Café 74, which she ran, and in New York in the late ’80s and ’90s at many spots including Anne Rozenzweig’s Arcadia, and then at Cascabel. She opened Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village in the summer of 1997.

“It really was the first place in the city to serve lobster rolls and chowder” and other New England classic summer food. “The knock-offs didn’t take long. Mary’s Fish Camp [also in the Village] was first, and now they’re everywhere.” She ponders the nature of New York food trends. “The lobster roll, the porchetta sandwich, and David Chang’s pork bun–everyone knows these upscale sandwich-type foods now. They’re everywhere [in New York City], but they weren’t anywhere until the first one.”

A film-major dropout from the State University of New York at Purchase (“I wasn’t really good at school”), Charles never attended culinary school. “Not too many of us did back then, really.” She remarks that many of today’s young cooks think being a chef means culinary school, working for a big shot chef, becoming a big shot chef, and getting a TV show.

“I train my cooks,” she says. “I train their training out of them. I don’t think technique and consistency are things many of them are interested in.” I remark that her host and waiters at Pearl in New York are remarkably hospitable. “I want my waiters to have fine-dining experience—but they’re sick of it—so they still know their stuff.”

And while she’s in Kennebunk getting Spat Oyster Cellar open, where does Charles eat? “I really like the fish sandwich called ‘A Fish Called Wanda’ at Allison’s. If I want clams, I’ll go to the Clam Shack on the bridge.”

Comments Closed

Comments are closed. You will not be able to post a comment in this post.


Oyster Empire

Rebecca Charles, chef/owner of the wildly successful Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan since 1997, stands in sweatshirt and sneakers in the middle of a vast, empty, cathedral-ceilinged room on Western Avenue in Kennebunk. The floors are wide planks, covered in dusty footprints. Overhead, garish, wacky chandeliers hang forlornly. The walls, all of them, and the ceiling, are painted a grim chalkboard black.

“Isn’t it awful?” pitala je. Her smile is huge. “You can see we’ve got a lot of work to do.” In three days, the renovation team will descend to transform the cavernous room into a bustling seasonal restaurant and, downstairs, into the pubby Spat Oyster Cellar. “Spat is a ‘baby’ oyster,” she explains.

This restaurant, which has upstairs/downstairs dining areas, was most recently a short-lived enterprise called Table intended for “cooking classes, pop-up dinners, mixology classes, [and] wine tastings,” according to its promotional literature. When Table folded, Charles pounced and bought the building and the little “bakehouse” cottage on the same property. Before Table, 27 Western Avenue housed the restaurant Abbondante, and before that Grissini (pictured next page), an Italian restaurant remembered affectionately by all of us who ever dined there.

“Grissini was a great place to have dinner–it was fun to be there,” says Charles. She wants to bring back that feeling. Ironically, although the premises are now gutted, two of Grissini’s most memorable features remain: The big stone fireplace in the dining room and an impossibly long, lovely pine harvest table that Grissini used for bounteous baskets of bouquets, bread, and cutting boards. When you came for dinner, the flickering fire and display of peasant breads seductively whispered Under the Tuscan Sun.

“Spat Oyster Cellar’s menu will be very similar to Pearl Oyster Bar,” says Rebecca (pictured right). She plans to open it this month. The larger restaurant upstairs, tentatively named Pearl North, will offer non-seafood items as well and opens this fall (bottom right).

“I have a brasserie template” in mind for the big restaurant. “I actually don’t like to work with interior designers too much, because that’s the fun part. I’m going with classic French bistro Thonet bentwood chairs, but padded. And my menu–you’ll see French elements, but it’s American food.”

Downstairs in the low-ceilinged snug that will become Spat Oyster Cellar, visitors are drawn to the long carrara marble bar and the small fireplace even before the restoration has begun. It will seat “approximately 35 at the bar and on the floor” and will be open year-round. It feels like just the intimate spot to stop for oysters and ale in a snowstorm.

KENNEBUNK CONNECTION

Rebecca Charles’s family began coming from Brooklyn to summer in Kennebunk nearly 100 years ago. It’s the late Rebecca “Pearle” Stein Goldsmith (left inset), her namesake maternal grandmother who so loved life and Kennebunk summers, who seems to be Charles’s muse and inspiration. In her 2003 memoir/cookbook, Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie, Charles writes, “Maine will always be home because of our memories…My grandparents [Pearle and Goldie Goldsmith] first drove their shiny Packard touring car through Kennebunk in very early August 1920. As their car motored around Beach Avenue…they would have seen some of the same beautiful old stone cottages, shingled saltboxes, and Victorians lining the road across from the water that I now pass.”

Goldsmith family summer-vacation tradition meant lodging at the Forest Hill House and Cottages on Western Avenue. Since the 1880s, and well into the 1940s, Forest Hill House was known as the Jewish guest house and was the only hotel in the yankee Kennebunks that accepted Jews as guests.

Today, Forest Hill House is the White Barn Inn. In the early 1980s, Rebecca Charles was hired as a young cook by the White Barn’s then-owner, Jack Nahill, to come run the kitchen and make the food more exciting. “First I took all the microwaves down to the basement,” says Charles. “I completely changed the menu. They had packets of Knorr dried sauces! Their idea of an elegant dish was canned artichoke hearts with Knorr hollandaise sauce!” Her stint as chef lasted just the one season. “Jack hired me to completely change the menu, and I did, so he fired me.” She laughs, with a carefree shrug. Restaurants are a crazy business.

A PRO IN HER ELEMENT

Charles, a youthful and energetic 62, earned her chops in restaurant kitchens in Kennebunk in the early 1980s, including at the Whistling Oyster and Café 74, which she ran, and in New York in the late ’80s and ’90s at many spots including Anne Rozenzweig’s Arcadia, and then at Cascabel. She opened Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village in the summer of 1997.

“It really was the first place in the city to serve lobster rolls and chowder” and other New England classic summer food. “The knock-offs didn’t take long. Mary’s Fish Camp [also in the Village] was first, and now they’re everywhere.” She ponders the nature of New York food trends. “The lobster roll, the porchetta sandwich, and David Chang’s pork bun–everyone knows these upscale sandwich-type foods now. They’re everywhere [in New York City], but they weren’t anywhere until the first one.”

A film-major dropout from the State University of New York at Purchase (“I wasn’t really good at school”), Charles never attended culinary school. “Not too many of us did back then, really.” She remarks that many of today’s young cooks think being a chef means culinary school, working for a big shot chef, becoming a big shot chef, and getting a TV show.

“I train my cooks,” she says. “I train their training out of them. I don’t think technique and consistency are things many of them are interested in.” I remark that her host and waiters at Pearl in New York are remarkably hospitable. “I want my waiters to have fine-dining experience—but they’re sick of it—so they still know their stuff.”

And while she’s in Kennebunk getting Spat Oyster Cellar open, where does Charles eat? “I really like the fish sandwich called ‘A Fish Called Wanda’ at Allison’s. If I want clams, I’ll go to the Clam Shack on the bridge.”

Comments Closed

Comments are closed. You will not be able to post a comment in this post.



Komentari:

  1. Prasutagus

    Mislim da je to pogrešan način i moraš se sklupčati od njega.

  2. Dokinos

    pozdrav. Htio sam se pretplatiti na rss feed, dodao ga u čitač, a postovi dolaze u obliku kvadrata, da vidim nešto s kodiranjem. Kako se to može ispraviti?

  3. Carl

    Jako dobra fraza

  4. Narve

    the Incomparable phrase, I like very much :)



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